Branches And Bulbs Forced In The Greenhouse

By Author: Mary Kate Mackey
Total Articles: 3
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As we step into the new year, celebrate the transition with an early dose of spring by forcing some winter branches or dormant bulbs. A sunny January day is the perfect time to head out, loppers in hand in search of branches for such projects. And stormy mid-winter weather is ideal for potting up quick-blooming bulbs indoors.

Quince, plum, forsythia, witchhazel, willow, apple or pear all make fine forcing subjects. Carefully select branches that have abundant flower buds. Don't allow them to dry out—plunge into warm water within twenty minutes of cutting—a floral preservative can be added at this point. Change the water every few days, and store out of direct sunlight, ideally between 50 and 60◦. Keep away from drafts and heating vents, maintaining cool, humid conditions; a large plastic bag or tarp is useful for this purpose. The closer to their normal bloom time, the more quickly the buds will open—it generally takes between one and four weeks. Arrange the branches as their buds begin to swell; once they're open, move to a brighter spot to enjoy. Cooler temperatures will help them last.

Although ...
... tulips and daffodils require several cold months before they bloom, a few bulbs are quicker. Amaryllis and hyacinths are both ideal for forcing.

Plant amaryllis in a container 1-2 wider than the bulb's diameter. Leave one-third to one-half of the bulb's top above the soil. Place in a sunny and warm (55◦) location. Keep moist, especially once flowering begins.

Hyacinths are often forced in specially designed glass containers. The bottom of the container is usually filled with water that reaches just to the bottom of the top cup; this holds the hyacinth bulb. Keep dark at 40-50◦. Roots and shoots develop within 4-8 weeks, when the hyacinths can be moved to a sunny, warmer place.

After flowering, most bulbs are too depleted to bloom another season. If you can't bear to throw them on the compost pile, cut off the flowers, and keep the leafy bulbs watered until they can be planted outside. After a season to recover in the ground, most hardy bulbs resume a normal life, blooming in sync with their non-forced brethren. But dig up tender bulbs-- such as Amaryllis-- before hard frosts and repot them indoors. With fresh soil and fertilizer, Amaryllis usually bloom every winter-- you'll be amazed by the increased size of your bulb after it summers in the garden!

These forced glimpses of spring might just help you endure a few more dark and cold days of winter.

To know more about greenhouses and branches and bulbs forced in the greenhouse visit http://www.hartley-greenhouses.com