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Rive Gauche-inspired Designer Menswear
The first time a haute couture designer launched a groundbreaking line of pret-a-porter clothing emphasizing apparel of more general appeal to the mass public instead of exclusive high fashion pieces for the catwalk was in 1966 in Paris. What Yves Saint Laurent, the designer, aimed to do was "democratize" fashion, incorporating garments worn by the lower classes into the world of men's fashion.
The name of his collection was Rive Gauche, from the French for "Left Bank", in reference to the left bank of Paris' River Seine. Saint Laurent sought to evoke, through this name, the era when free-thinking, creativity and individualism flourished in the Rive Gauche area and attracted intellectuals like Salvador Dali, Ernest Hemingway and Toulouse Lautrec. Back in 1900 the term "bohemian" was employed to describe such people's unconventionality and individuality as relating to their lifestyles, philosophies and professions. Nowadays the term conjures up tie-die, hippy-inspired garments made of natural fibers; nevertheless, Rive Gauche is about down-to-earth, functional, muted dressing with a sense of individuality that could ...
... be described as a sort of "urban bohemia".
Recent designer menswear trends have revealed a leaning towards Rive Gauche style for next season. Life in the Rive Gauche in the early 1900s was socially oriented and the intellectuals and artists of the time spent lots of time outdoors in the streets even in the winter, which made layering important to keeping warm. People donned heavy overcoats and chunky knit garments, mixing and matching distinct textures, styles and fabrics. For instance, men would wear large trench coats over structured blazers coupled with loose, chunky knits and layered pants. Another key element characteristic of the Rive Gauche look was the presence of loosely wrapped scarves or knotted neckerchiefs. Overall, the style gives a nonchalant impression of slightly disheveled rawness that nevertheless possesses an inherent, and seemingly effortless, refinement.
The upcoming season in designer menswear features a range of oversize overcoats matched with chunky cardigans in a mix of muted colors. Grey is perhaps the most popular, followed by cream, black and navy. Lots of different scarves have been designed to complement the bohemian look and incorporate subtle color, such as chunky oversize knit ones and pashmina-style knit scarves, in addition to casually tied neckerchiefs. Accessories like herringbone flat caps, battered suitcases and floral brooches enhance the early 1900s feel of eccentricity and creative flair.
Terrence Jones is a fashion student in London, focusing on Men's Fashion.
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