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Elusive French Style
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Difficult question to uncover a French a href="http://www.matthewaperry.com/">cheap custom suits national style or elegance. We have seen over the past two weeks. In France, one of the few widespread parts of the territory is the amount collar jacket, jacket or shirt collar. But it is a clothing work because, as mentioned last week, the fashion of high society has evolved and does not offer archetype.
This little jacket campaigns seems however to be a classic, at least since the 1880 years until the 60s. Buttoned up to the neck for a heat issue, but little wide and adjusted for comfort at work, she wears most of the time a falling collar. See in this picture the number of jackets like this. Cross right or left. Garment mechanic, agricultural worker, the policeman even (in a stricter version), the postman and other public officials, it could be a sort of French clothing. But a popular garment, almost a sign of class, at least a sign of social status.
In contrast, as discussed through the article on Old England, the elite found in the new Second Empire style imported from across the Channel, which is soon called the Anglomania. The fraction of black cloth soon invades the streets of Paris, like other European cities. And therefore the style 'in English' gave the 'the' continental modes.
This style spread like wildfire. It was convenient (a pace close to the body but not narrow), quick to make (manual cutting spread quickly) and easy to find fabrics (especially the English industrial revolution counters watered the world in inexpensive linen ). One could say that until the 50s, it is particularly difficult to find national readings. And even a little after.
Could such that Crusaders Jean Gabin are French? Or of Mr. Dalio Cheyniest starring in The Rules of the Game is not 'the English' to your fingertips? There have been various attempts to create tailor the appearance, but this is more of mannerisms that serious experiments. Of course nowadays, there is a Parisian notch, as well as some Italians call it.
However, it persists in certain sections of the French society of very rites in English, a style so clear that it becomes almost more English than the original. This is what I call the old style France. Pejorative for many, it has a strong interest in my eyes. Very conservative, the proprietor of this taste grow codes English chic in a corner, with a naturalness that is envy. This concept of natural is very important.
Obviously, there are some ways behind. Means often passed from father to son like the taste: Crockett and Jones shoes or clothes Bowen and tailor to the city (dark cross or three-button jackets rights) and the countryside (corduroy trousers and tweed jackets). These classic even have the good taste not to mix blazer and black shoes, aware of the shift that product. Because at that time it is in the Old France from my point of view, but the petty bourgeois. We went from an informed reading a narrow reading. For more than a style, this is a reading in the French of the English way of dressing. Reading and interpreting.
Is there further specificities Vielle France? First pay attention to the cut. The jackets are slim. They can be faded or slumped, taking the curves of the body, but it is primarily a patina. Having a jacket too large sign clearly a commitment to comfort philistine (sorry these categorizations, James Darwen but clarify ideas). This is not true for large coats coats kind.
If wool is the material par excellence, the colors remain sober. Unlike the English love teasing ridicule by the use of colored checks and stripes crisp, man Old France will only son to son and other discrete patterns in rather dark bases or very clear for the summer. The same for his tweeds, it will preferentially united, small brown or tobacco rafters with few frills, but enhance corduroy in colors awakened!
The shirts will be discrete, plain or with fine stripes, stripes 'on Charvet' example (assembly of one or two stripes of different colors or tone, of various widths and spacing, on a background of white dominant ). Let the rest of this article in the French style blouse Charvet is the first in the world to have opened and the inventor of the modern shirt, and English chic to say not until recently has shirmaker 'but has blouse '. Like the U.S., it seems to me discern in advertising archive images a French interest in white collar, from a time when the passes were hard. And this gives a more allocated for the purpose, namely a word that could suit us side immediately. Indeed, we are halfway to Italy and the Latin side sweat sometimes in the Nordic sobriety.
Finally tie. Old Man France is not passion for Italian models, united in navy blue. Instead, it dares tarnished reds, oranges attenuated green altered, sometimes accented with dots and palmettos. He considers to be more refined than printed woven and prevents clubs ties, except when he went there (Automobile Club, Traveller's or Jockey for example). Hermes tie with its myriad small mouse or elephant is one of the few opportunities to play to the gallery, but only 50cm from the object, so it should still be close to the circle noticing.
This is for those few bits of answers. It will take me at least another fifty years of reflection to definitively answer the question, but then the changes have been so profound that it will certainly review the story again. What do you think of this final approach? I'd like your opinion on this man 'Old France', whose style is cleverly confiscated in the English pot.
The idea would be to draw a few different figures of mine, that would inform the debate. Figurines which is neither Italian nor English. Your turn! Let me enter comment links to images, materials, outfits I réorganiserais your instructions ...
NB: It goes without saying that these assumptions are only elements of debate. The idea was simply finger on the idea of an old style France bespoke suits claimed in continuity of Old England style that we admire. But with characteristics that are ours ...
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